Build your own fucking machine

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Build your own fucking machine

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Build your own fucking machine It was a little bit difficult to find the correct position at the beginning. Roxy renalds to Affairs with married men psychology. Tschechisch Wörterbücher. It seems to be a well made device, and is Katniss naked quiet during operation. Super quiet and really enjoyable! And speeds on that thing can get WILD! The engineer in me cheered a News reporter sex tape at this.
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How fast is the sex machine? Monique fuentes tube Me About … D. If it has only 2 wires, they has to Older women pussy connected to the controller blue and Nudecam wires. Please ensure that the following rules are both understood and adhered to. For those looking for the quietest Stacie starr xxx machinecheck Daredorm extra credit the Love Glider style. Classic List Threaded. Whether you go for a thruster, saddle, handheld or DIY sex machine…lube up Chat call have the ride of your life thanks to the best fucking machine!

It does have decent vibration RPM but the machine is quite light for such force and makes me wonder about its durability.

For those looking for the quietest sex machine , check out the Love Glider style. Or use the Vac-U-Lock adaptor to attach your favorite dongs. Most notably, the Fuck Machine 3.

Before you part with the big bucks, you need to know what to look out for. Think about your pleasure preferences. Do you prefer the buzz over being filled up, or do you like to combine sensations?

Also, if the large machines are too intimidating at first, go for a handheld sex machine like the Velvet Thruster Jackie we mentioned earlier.

Think about what comes with your machine and if you are going to be limited to them. For more options choose a machine that allows you to add your own toys either by Vac-U-Lock most common or suction cup.

If you DO want variety… check out the section below on how to attach different toys to your sex machine. The stronger the motor, the bigger the toy it can handle.

As far as the build of the machine goes, for saddles, you want a sturdy piece that will hold your weight. The Cowgirl for example, is suitable for persons up to lbs kg , while the Sybian is designed to take up to lbs kg … Quite the difference!

For thrusters you want something that can fuck you hard and hold its ground! The heavier the frame and machine, the more sturdy it will be.

From our list, the F-machine 3 Pro is our heavy-weight champ at When choosing your sex machine attachments you want top-quality, body-safe materials.

Remember, fucking machine is not your pocket vibrator…this is a heavy-duty technical machine with a motor. You need to know the company you buy from will help you sort it out, quickly and easily.

Because there are so many knockoffs! FMachineFun is an option for the UK. To be honest… this made more sense in the past when the fucking machines were more expensive.

But right now, the cost in parts would be around the same as buying and modifying a new machine not counting your time investment.

However, if you just love the challenge and tinkering, here are few resources to get you started:. Sex machines are a great toy for single kinksters and couples alike.

One thing that is definite to get maximum pleasure is LUBE! If you go with our Overall Best Fucking Machine, the Hismith, by default, it comes with a KlicLoc connector, a silicone dildo attachment 6.

Pretty much any sex machine can become an anal sex machine by using the attachments available or switching them out for an anal dildo. Whether you go for a thruster, saddle, handheld or DIY sex machine…lube up and have the ride of your life thanks to the best fucking machine!

Do you have any advice for choosing the Hismith or F-machine Pro 3? I am doubting between those two. I like the Hismith because it has remote and app control.

But for the build quality I read that sometimes the power adapter, control unit or the coupler of the base are less quality cheap Chinese and break down.

From what I read is the F-machine Pro 3 pretty similar regarding specs, but is the build quality a step higher. My choice is always towards Hismith first, F-machine is more expensive keep in mind, that remote and app would add to it , similar in specs yes, and design is cool.

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Ruby Moore Updated: October 6, Share on twitter. Share on whatsapp. Share on pinterest. Share on email. Here are the 8 most important things to consider when shopping for F-machine : How strong is the motor torque?

How long is the stroke? How fun, intuitive and enjoyable it is to use it? How quiet is it? Is the sex machine compatible with other sex toys, attachments?

How fast is the sex machine? Support matters. A lot. Good value for the money? Check price on hismith. Click for Best Price.

Very quiet Fast delivery Excellent customer care Lighter, more portable. Very high quality US made Great buyer support. Assembled and ready to fuck!

Compact and portable. Short stroke length Need to use a lot of lube. Discount deal hismith18 Great buyer support High quality 6.

Since you only have seven leads to solder cut off the brown strip lead , I suggest soldering them to pins Leave pin 8, which is in the center alone.

Be sure to keep the pin out chart above for future reference. It will be important to keep all of this straight when wiring the rest of the machine.

That would allow for more immediate and convenient control over the function of the machine. So, this remote control unit has a bit of soldering work.

The dimensions are mm 4. I used Cat 6 wire rather than Cat 5 wire because Cat 6 wire is 23 guage, which is a bit heavier than Cat5.

Cat 6 wire is rated for v and. Note — The motor potentiometer can be between 3k and 5k ohms, as long as you are using the same motor control unit as I did in this build.

If you are using a different unit, you will have to use the appropriate potentiometer. If you are using the same motor control unit that I used in this build, I suggest using a pot closer to 3k.

I like to run the cable throught he bottom of the remote, rather than through the top. It just makes handling and hanging the remote easier. This is also useful for hanging the remote on the machine when not in use.

This is the pin assignment for the remote control. In order to do this, we have to have a mechanism for controlling the individual motors.

Here is the wiring process I used. Slide one end of the cable through the grommet hole so that you can wire the two panel mount multi-pin connectors for the remote and vibrator.

Then secure the panel mount connectors to the vibrator arm frame. The speed of the motor will vary in direct proportion to the voltage fed to it.

So, a motor will run at half the speed at 50v than it will at v. Each motor has what is called a Nominal Voltage, which is the voltage at which the motor runs the most efficiently.

As you vary from the nominal voltage, you will lose both torque and motor longevity. It will produce RPMs at v.

This motor control unit has a v max output voltage which produces a max RPMs in the motor. This is about perfect. This is a pain to do, but it is neceessary in order to remove the chassis cover.

Not only that, but it looks lot nicer without the labels. To do this, remove the two mounting screws on the back and loosen the voltage regulator mounting clamp screw on the side.

If you look on the inside of the chassis while you loosen the clamp screw you will notice a small metal arm attached to the threads that is pinching the voltage regulator to the side of the chassis.

Once the screw is loosened a bit, rotate that arm to free the voltage regulator. Slide the circuit board from the chassis and the plastic sheet that lies between the circuit board and chassis.

Find four spaces on the board where there are no exposed solder connections and mark them on the plastic sheet with a sharpee.

These dots correspond to where the mounting holes will be drilled into the chassis and where the heads of the mounting screws will rest.

Do not drill through the plastic sheet itself. This is important for insulating the circuit board from the chassis. Also, make sure that the surface that was in contact with the circuit board when you marked the dots is now facing up.

This will ensure that your holes are in the correct location. I tapped these holes for machine screws, but you could just as easily use nuts to secure the screws.

The rubber washers help insulate the control unit from vibration and provide some space for the cable to be secured behind the chassis.

Notice that that I have added a chassis ground. This is easy to do as a hole is already provided for this purpose on the chassis. Simply attach bothe the ground wire from your power cable and from the motor and you are done.

The system is properly grounded. Although Vac-U-Lock dildos and toys were relatively difficult to find, they is a wide variety of toys, adaptors, and accessories available today.

Plus, Matt has a full machine shop and can custom make any type of shaft or adapter that you need. They are free of harmful chemicals, such as pthalates, they are specifically designed to work with Vac-U-Lock adapters, and Doc Johnson is the manufacturer of choice for many of the performers in the adult industry.

If you are an experienced fabricator, many of these may be pretty obvious, but if you are a novice like me, they may save you from some stress.

The first time that I wired the vibrator as described in this tutorial, it blew up when I turned it on. I have a great deal of respect for electricity and was very careful when designing and wiring it, so I was surprised when loud popping sounds and puffs of magic smoke emerged from the vibrator.

After a careful investigation, I discovered that the Chinese have a creative method for numbering the pins on the 8-pin aviation connector. Pin 1 on the plug is supposed to contact Pin 1 on the jack, Pin 2 should connect with Pin 2, etc.

However, it turned out that the numbering was off on the 8-pin jack. So, Pin 1 of the plug connected with Pin 7 of the jack, Pin 2 of the plug connected with Pin 1 of the jack, and so on.

This resulted in electricity flowing incorrectly through the system and the vibrator blew up as a result. I ordered another vibrator, wired everything again, making some adjustments for the errant pin numbering, and voila!

Everything works perfectly. The moral of the story is to check your wiring with a multimeter before plugging your new machine into the wall.

If the rotation was the face on a clock, I would cut from to , reverse back to , forward to , back to , forward to , back to , forward to , etc.

This process is a bit tedious, but since going to this pattern, I have not broken a single tap. Prior to this, I broke a lot of them.

This worked perfectly until the very end when I wanted to put on end caps. The vibrator used for this build requires v AC power, so this has to be run from the motor control unit, through the wiring and connectors, to reach the vibrator.

Because the connectors used in this build have male pins in the panel mount jacks, two of the pins in the 8-pin jack run v whenever the unit is plugged in.

If the vibrator is not plugged into the jack, these v pins will be exposed and may pose a shock hazard. So, keep the vibrator plugged in whenever the machine is plugged into power.

Back in Medieval times, crafts men and women worked cooperatively, rather than competitively. This meant that everyone shared any new discovery or technique they had developed so that everyone could benefit.

So far, the machine-building community seems to have some of that spirit, which is why I spent some time to put this document together.

I hope that you also share what you create so that we may all learn. If you have any thoughts or suggestions as I go through this process, I would appreciate your feedback.

Thanks man! In reply to this post by Erote. This is a spectacular build tutorial! Thank you for sharing the results of your hard work!

I know this forum doesn't have a "karma" feature, but if it did I would hit that button a few times for you!

Thanks a lot! It's been a fun project, and I have learned a lot. A couple other people in my area want me to help them do builds, and I will try to get tutorials of those builds posted as well—assuming that they are okay with me taking tons of photos.

Have an awesome ! Very cool machine. Very professional and built very well. You should build them and sell them. Thank you so much, Bigtool!

I appreciate it! Use "in the field" has been very I thought about selling them, I just don't thing people would be willing to pay enough to make it worth the time I put into it.

The build is not difficult, it is just very detailed and time consuming. I appreciate the kind words.

This is an awesome build, thanks so much for the upload. I'm nearing the end of acquiring all the parts i need for my own build.

It's going to be basically a version of the "Heavy Duty" with your flywheel, driveline, linkage, and bearings, and it will look a bit more like "The Invader" on XR, than the "Heavy Duty".

A lot of your ideas have really helped a lot and i can't wait to get finished with it. Thanks a lot CelticKnyt. I appreciate the kind words and am looking forward to seeing your build.

Have a great weekend! I have search the last couple of years for a good decent fucking machine build to build for my common law wife because we are a fans of this stuff.

Been thinking to buy one also, but the price they are asking for them is a no GO for us, and buy a cheap China made one is a hell NO.

Thank you. The machine that I built here has worked extremely well. It has been used many times by several different people with good results.

Very solid and no discomfort or injury. Good luck with your build. I look forward to seeing the end product! Just one quicky! What size do I need to print the template in?

Have tried the one here image and the one from the PDF. However, I would just double-check the template once you print it out by overlaying it on your motor to make sure all the holes line up correctly.

If all else fails, you can make a quick and dirty template for your motor by taking a sheet of paper and pushing the shaft through the paper to make a hole where the shaft goes and then taking a pen and poking holes where the mounting screws go.

This will give you the locations of the center of your holes. It's not quite as pretty or precise, but it will work.

Let me know how it goes. Good luck. In reply to this post by gh0st. Merry X-mas to all. Very nice build. Thank you for the detail and pics in your post.

Rust Racer. Starting a build and the controllers I can find have a slightly different description regarding input voltage. Thanks, Rust Race.

Hi Rust, Thanks for your interest in building this machine. It has become a party favorite and after years of use, it still is rock solid.

Many of the DC controllers have variable AC input voltages. So, the unit you are describing should work just fine. I will be uploading some updates to the plan in the next couple of weeks, but I will just share that stuff with you now.

Although the chances of being shocked are very low, someone could potentially reach under the machine to move it when it is plugged in and their hand could touch exposed terminals.

So, in the interest of safety, that is important.

Your browser does not currently recognize any of the video formats available. Click here to visit our frequently asked questions about HTML5 video. Switch camera. Share Up next. Autoplay. When autoplay is enabled, a suggested video will automatically play next. Sex Machine DIY build. Gel Quin. You pourn com futurama: blowjobs group games team building. cul amateur girl doing donkey build your own fucking machine free hardcore porn forced. Build Your Own Automatic Fucking Machine, clip video sodomie Do Girls Like To Be Tied Up, mature free film Russian porn star list; Office Professional. You pourn com futurama: blowjobs group games team building. cul amateur girl doing donkey build your own fucking machine free hardcore porn forced. My self build milking machine, sit back Three-headed dildo on a sex-machine + vacuum pump Fucking-machines fucks a TS-girl masturbating on the back.

Do you prefer the buzz over being filled up, or do you like to combine sensations? Also, if the large machines are too intimidating at first, go for a handheld sex machine like the Velvet Thruster Jackie we mentioned earlier.

Think about what comes with your machine and if you are going to be limited to them. For more options choose a machine that allows you to add your own toys either by Vac-U-Lock most common or suction cup.

If you DO want variety… check out the section below on how to attach different toys to your sex machine. The stronger the motor, the bigger the toy it can handle.

As far as the build of the machine goes, for saddles, you want a sturdy piece that will hold your weight.

The Cowgirl for example, is suitable for persons up to lbs kg , while the Sybian is designed to take up to lbs kg … Quite the difference!

For thrusters you want something that can fuck you hard and hold its ground! The heavier the frame and machine, the more sturdy it will be.

From our list, the F-machine 3 Pro is our heavy-weight champ at When choosing your sex machine attachments you want top-quality, body-safe materials.

Remember, fucking machine is not your pocket vibrator…this is a heavy-duty technical machine with a motor. You need to know the company you buy from will help you sort it out, quickly and easily.

Because there are so many knockoffs! FMachineFun is an option for the UK. To be honest… this made more sense in the past when the fucking machines were more expensive.

But right now, the cost in parts would be around the same as buying and modifying a new machine not counting your time investment.

However, if you just love the challenge and tinkering, here are few resources to get you started:.

Sex machines are a great toy for single kinksters and couples alike. One thing that is definite to get maximum pleasure is LUBE!

If you go with our Overall Best Fucking Machine, the Hismith, by default, it comes with a KlicLoc connector, a silicone dildo attachment 6. Pretty much any sex machine can become an anal sex machine by using the attachments available or switching them out for an anal dildo.

Whether you go for a thruster, saddle, handheld or DIY sex machine…lube up and have the ride of your life thanks to the best fucking machine!

Do you have any advice for choosing the Hismith or F-machine Pro 3? I am doubting between those two. I like the Hismith because it has remote and app control.

But for the build quality I read that sometimes the power adapter, control unit or the coupler of the base are less quality cheap Chinese and break down.

From what I read is the F-machine Pro 3 pretty similar regarding specs, but is the build quality a step higher.

My choice is always towards Hismith first, F-machine is more expensive keep in mind, that remote and app would add to it , similar in specs yes, and design is cool.

SexualAlpha participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links to retailer sites.

Learn More. Please log in again. The login page will open in a new tab. After logging in you can close it and return to this page.

Ruby Moore Updated: October 6, Share on twitter. Share on whatsapp. Share on pinterest. Share on email. Here are the 8 most important things to consider when shopping for F-machine : How strong is the motor torque?

How long is the stroke? For those of you who don't have that kind of money, there is a popular toy called a wand vibrator which is much more affordable and works extremely well When placed on the clit, these small vibrators can elicit a very strong response.

These wand massagers can sometimes be too strong for women; I've read of some women wrapping the head in a hand towel to lessen the vibrations.

There are a number of attachments available for these vibrators, including attachments meant for penetration. These are so simple I almost hesitate to include them in the category of machines, but there are some VERY elaborate vibrators out there and they certainly deserve credit.

Just look at the Sybian as an example! Some people also refer to these machines as "squirming" machines There isn't any in-and-out action, but the attachments can "squirm" inside the user.

I've never actually seen a Sybian used, but I've seen some videos from the web featuring these machines. The women seem to be enjoying themselves.

Images from ExtremeRestraints and FuckingMachines. These machines are what people will traditionally think of when talking about building a fucking machine.

The action tends to be simple: in and out. I ordered another vibrator, wired everything again, making some adjustments for the errant pin numbering, and voila!

Everything works perfectly. The moral of the story is to check your wiring with a multimeter before plugging your new machine into the wall.

If the rotation was the face on a clock, I would cut from to , reverse back to , forward to , back to , forward to , back to , forward to , etc.

This process is a bit tedious, but since going to this pattern, I have not broken a single tap. Prior to this, I broke a lot of them. This worked perfectly until the very end when I wanted to put on end caps.

The vibrator used for this build requires v AC power, so this has to be run from the motor control unit, through the wiring and connectors, to reach the vibrator.

Because the connectors used in this build have male pins in the panel mount jacks, two of the pins in the 8-pin jack run v whenever the unit is plugged in.

If the vibrator is not plugged into the jack, these v pins will be exposed and may pose a shock hazard. So, keep the vibrator plugged in whenever the machine is plugged into power.

Back in Medieval times, crafts men and women worked cooperatively, rather than competitively. This meant that everyone shared any new discovery or technique they had developed so that everyone could benefit.

So far, the machine-building community seems to have some of that spirit, which is why I spent some time to put this document together.

I hope that you also share what you create so that we may all learn. If you have any thoughts or suggestions as I go through this process, I would appreciate your feedback.

Thanks man! In reply to this post by Erote. This is a spectacular build tutorial! Thank you for sharing the results of your hard work!

I know this forum doesn't have a "karma" feature, but if it did I would hit that button a few times for you! Thanks a lot! It's been a fun project, and I have learned a lot.

A couple other people in my area want me to help them do builds, and I will try to get tutorials of those builds posted as well—assuming that they are okay with me taking tons of photos.

Have an awesome ! Very cool machine. Very professional and built very well. You should build them and sell them. Thank you so much, Bigtool!

I appreciate it! Use "in the field" has been very I thought about selling them, I just don't thing people would be willing to pay enough to make it worth the time I put into it.

The build is not difficult, it is just very detailed and time consuming. I appreciate the kind words. This is an awesome build, thanks so much for the upload.

I'm nearing the end of acquiring all the parts i need for my own build. It's going to be basically a version of the "Heavy Duty" with your flywheel, driveline, linkage, and bearings, and it will look a bit more like "The Invader" on XR, than the "Heavy Duty".

A lot of your ideas have really helped a lot and i can't wait to get finished with it. Thanks a lot CelticKnyt. I appreciate the kind words and am looking forward to seeing your build.

Have a great weekend! I have search the last couple of years for a good decent fucking machine build to build for my common law wife because we are a fans of this stuff.

Been thinking to buy one also, but the price they are asking for them is a no GO for us, and buy a cheap China made one is a hell NO.

Thank you. The machine that I built here has worked extremely well. It has been used many times by several different people with good results.

Very solid and no discomfort or injury. Good luck with your build. I look forward to seeing the end product! Just one quicky! What size do I need to print the template in?

Have tried the one here image and the one from the PDF. However, I would just double-check the template once you print it out by overlaying it on your motor to make sure all the holes line up correctly.

If all else fails, you can make a quick and dirty template for your motor by taking a sheet of paper and pushing the shaft through the paper to make a hole where the shaft goes and then taking a pen and poking holes where the mounting screws go.

This will give you the locations of the center of your holes. It's not quite as pretty or precise, but it will work.

Let me know how it goes. Good luck. In reply to this post by gh0st. Merry X-mas to all. Very nice build.

Thank you for the detail and pics in your post. Rust Racer. Starting a build and the controllers I can find have a slightly different description regarding input voltage.

Thanks, Rust Race. Hi Rust, Thanks for your interest in building this machine. It has become a party favorite and after years of use, it still is rock solid.

Many of the DC controllers have variable AC input voltages. So, the unit you are describing should work just fine. I will be uploading some updates to the plan in the next couple of weeks, but I will just share that stuff with you now.

Although the chances of being shocked are very low, someone could potentially reach under the machine to move it when it is plugged in and their hand could touch exposed terminals.

So, in the interest of safety, that is important. Currently, I have both high voltage and low voltage going through the same connector. If there was a short, in the connector from a wire that broke or became disconnected, this could potentially send high voltage AC through the DC and low voltage components and fry them.

Until the redesign is complete, I would suggest using a standard battery-operated vibrator. The single-most important safety practice with this machine is to always start with the rod fully extended and have the person slide themselves onto the toy to the depth that feels comfortable.

That way when the machine starts, it begins by withdrawing and doesn't surprise someone with a thrust that may be deeper than comfortable.

Oh, one last thing, You will probably find that the third or fourth closest hole to the center of the flywheel provides the right amount of thrust depth.

The holes further out from the center tend to completely withdraw the toy from the person and unless the aim is perfect, can miss it's target.

I hope this info is useful. Let me know how it goes, and be sure to send lots of pictures! Todd, Thanks for that info. I will go ahead and order the controller and motor today.

The controller I have found is from the same manufacturer that you specify in your build narrative, but with the variable input. How did you identify which terminals to use for power in, power out, and potentiometer connections?

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